Polyshades is supposed to be applied in a couple of thin coats…and left to dry, sanding lightly between. First off, you do nit need to cut it with mineral spirits, just mix it well. You need to be careful how you apply this because each coat you put on will make the project darker. The poly finish will not allow you to wipe it off…and you’ll end up gunking it up. Polyshades as stated before is a tinted polyurethane. When using Minwax PolyShades instead of a separate stain and varnish, you save time and effort as you protect and beautify your furniture or trim with a … I soak it on heavy and spread it out, then wipe off the excess. Or try the rattle cans. Scuff up the poly with the 80 grit, slop on some stripper and keep it wet until the poly wrinkles or starts to slough off. It is recommended for interior wood surfaces such as furniture, molding, doors and cabinets. Best to do this outside and wear stripping gloves, respirator and eye protection. Waited for it to dry at least 8 hours, on the can it says 2-3 hours. Repeated 4 times. Minwax® PolyShades® to the rescue! Do you wipe off Minwax polyshades? Re: removing Minwax polyshades Bob! Now I’m a little bit of a control freak when it comes to stain, and like to be able to adjust my stain as I go, so I normally turn to stain first, and then top coat when I’m absolutely … I choose Pecan to match my cabinets. You may apply the Minwax Water Based Polyurethane over a fully cured Minwax Wood Finish Stain (oil-based). However, I think you'd still have to fight the "bleed-back" challenge because of the porosity of the red oak. To stain the conventional way, brush it on wipe it off, would leave no brush marks. For each coat of the poly my process was: wipe on with foam brush, wait 5-10 mins then wipe down with tack cloth. Minwax PolyShades is a combination stain and polyurethane finish for wood. You can then wipe on different shades of stain to make your pattern. PolyShades® is a one-step stain and polyurethane in one product. After the roll-on coats are dry, I use Minwax wipe on poly (use the same sheen you chose for the roll-on poly) for the face frames, legs, doors or any other narrow, small or intricate areas. You could try wiping the table down with mineral spirits to remove any excess stain, then allow it to dry and apply several coats of a tinted polyurethane (such as Minwax PolyShades). I have used it many times with zero issues. For stains, you apply then wipe off excess. (practice on some similar wood first and let the wood dry thoroughly then sand or scrape smooth) Once you have the desired pattern, apply some clear finish to … I use cut up pieces of old t-shirts. Use Wipe-On Poly for Small or Tight Areas. Then spray the poly. Getting Started. Then sanded using 600 grit and wipe down with tack cloth. And when you scuff sand (with 320 grit) you will be taking some of the color off. Typically, I use the traditional two-step method: apply my stain, wiping off the excess liquid before it dries, then the next day apply a clear finish. The tint will obscure the wood grain some, but since it’s a surface finish, it won’t absorb unevenly into the wood like penetrating stain can. You may be able to use some watered down bleach to lighten the wood some. You coat the project with the Polyshades and it does the color coat along with the top coat at the same time. Poly can be sprayed but needs thinned, not sure what thinning and spraying would do for the stain. To thin the Polyshades might dilute the color. Second, it does not spray well, and using a brush will create nasty bubbles and imperfections. I do this after the large areas are dry so I don’t smudge adjacent areas. Then applied 4 coats total of Minwax wipe on satin poly. 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